Burghound – 91-94
This is sufficiently reduced to mask all but hints of earth and spice. The palate impression manages to be at once lighter weight yet powerful with a lovely texture thanks partially to a subtle minerality that adds a sense of lift to the very firm, compact and impressively long bitter pit fruit-inflected finale. Patience absolutely necessary.
Vinous – 95
The 2021 Clos-de-la-Roche Grand Cru has a slightly reticent nose at first, unfurling with white-tipped strawberry, cranberry jus and crushed stone aromas that become more vocal with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins, fine acidity, fresh but unapologetically strict on the finish. This will need several years in bottle, but is very promising.
Anticipated maturity: 2027-2048
Jasper Morris – 94-96
Not as deep in colour as the Charmes, but still with a vibrant purple edge. An interesting mix between crystalline red fruit and perhaps a little white pepper from the whole bunch component. Clearly a well-constructed wine. Racy fresh raspberry fruit, with a firmer structure behind, not so much of the blueberry here. This Clos de la Roche once again demonstrates the raw silk image which I have for this vineyard.
Anticipated maturity: 2028-2036