Vinous – 94
The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée 1859, which traditionally enters into the Ostrea cuvée, refers to the date that Trapet’s grandfather purchased the first parcel (on 23 October that year to be exact), and it contains 80% whole bunch. Trapet was not 100% sure he will bottle this separately…but he most likely will, so I include it here. It has a fragrant, floral bouquet with pressed iris flowers and sous-bois, shy at first but unfolding with time. The palate is well-balanced with sappy red berry fruit, fine acidity, taut and saline with a very harmonious finish. This is wonderful…fingers crossed that Trapet sees this through to bottling.
Anticipated maturity: 2025-2045
John Gilman – 93
This is the second vintage of the Cuvée 1859, which is made from another parcel of old vines in the lieu à dit of Champs Perrier, which happens to be the first plot of vines purchased by the Trapet family in Gevrey-Chambertin when they moved to the village from Chambolle. Jean-Louis and his family decided to mark the one hundred and sixtieth anniversary of this parcel by bottling the wine on its own in the 2019 vintage, and it has turned out so well that it is now going to be a regular addition to the family’s lineup of wines. Both the 2019 and 2020 show that this is a wine of premier cru quality without a doubt, with the 2020 having been made with one hundred percent whole clusters. The wine offers up a fine aromatic constellation of cassis, dark berries, a lovely array of spices from the sweet stem tones, a beautiful base of soil, cigar wrapper, woodsmoke, a deft framing of vanillin oak and a topnote of violet. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and pure, with lovely sappiness in the mid-palate, excellent backend mineral drive and a long, ripely tannic and impeccable finish. Fine, fine juice.
Anticipated maturity: 2028-2065