Vinous – 93
The 2018 Camille Hommage Le Mesnil-sur-Oger is sourced from Volibarts, a well-exposed parcel in Mesnil that informed the 1961, the last Coteaux Champenois made at Roederer. It was aged in a combination of 60% amphora, 20% new oak and 20% steel. Lemon confit, almond, dried flowers and tropical accents fill out the layers effortlessly. It will drink well right out of the gate.
Decanter – 93
The complexity of upbringing (a 15-month ageing in a combination of sandstone vats, stainless steel and oak barrels) is repaid by the challenges of a full appreciation. The first impression is of lime, verbena, chalk and spring flowers; intimation of Giacometti lean rather than Rubens fleshy. The palate challenges this presumption and impresses with its texture, mealy honeyed notes sitting well with orchard fruit freshness, spice from the oak equally satisfying, the finish firm and measured, with hints of salinity sounding the final fanfare.