Vinous – 89
The 2017 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru has a lighter bouquet than the Clos des Chênes from François Buffer, offering cranberry, wild strawberry and a touch of sous-bois and ash, not quite as precise as the best examples. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fresh acidity and a slightly chalky texture toward the finish, which attenuates slightly. This is another wine from Lafarge that I feel has closed up, making it difficult to score. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.
Anticipated maturity: 2023-2037
Robert Parker – 93
The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des ChÃªnes is the most complex and concentrated wine in the Lafarge cellar, wafting from the glass with notes of sweet plums, spices, candied peel, espresso roast and dark chocolate. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with a layered mid-palate framed by an abundance of chalky structuring tannins, concluding with a long, chalky finish. The Lafarge parcel is located at the northeastern extreme of Clos des ChÃªnes where it’s more sheltered from the wind than much of the vineyard, which may partially explain why it always seems to stand apart from other domaines’ renditions.
JancisRobinson.com – 17/20
Barrel sample of final blend. Almost 1 ha (it is 16 ha in total). Redder and much shallower soils over the limestone compared with the Clos du Chateau des Ducs. More savoury and spicy on the nose. More cedary and tight. Smells of the forest. But then there’s sweetness on the palate. Deep and savoury in the mouth, with fine-grained though evident tannins and a spiciness in the texture, if you can imagine that. The least obviously fruity of the Lafarge wines. (JH)
Anticipated maturity: 2024-2037