Vinous – 91
The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru has an open nose of red cherry, kirsch and desiccated orange peel, nicely defined if just needing a little more cohesion. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins, and very pure and modern in style. Silky in texture with a pinch of spice, this will require two or three years to develop more terroir expression. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.
Anticipated maturity: 2023-2036
John Gilman – 93
I love the synthesis of the terroir of the Clos de la Maréchale with very suave vintages like 2017, as the combination works so beautifully. This is a superb young wine in the making, offering up a fine aromatic constellation of cherries, quince, a touch of nutskin, a lovely base of soil tones, woodsmoke, fresh herbs and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nascently complex, with a lovely core of fruit, fine soil signature and grip, buried tannins and a long, vibrant and still fairly primary finish. This needs time, but is going to be outstanding.
Anticipated maturity: 2030-2075
Jasper Morris – 88
Fresh bright colour, cheerily fruity, with more depth of fruit as the wine spends time in the glass. Just a little bit of bacon fat in there. Slightly leaner finish, attractive but I would like to see this wine build a little more at the back.
Burghound – 91
A markedly earthy nose features notes of various dark berries and hints of game and similar green tea nuances. There is both good detail and a lovely underlying tension to the middle weight flavors that are not quite as refined but offer a bit more complexity on the lingering finish where the intensity and power really build from the mid-palate. This delicious effort should amply repay mid-term cellaring.
JancisRobinson.com – 16.5
A little lighter in colour compared with the 2018. Still spicy but more citrus as well as stone fruit and pear. More stony and cedary, more marked by the wood in a cedary character even though the barrels are 7–8 years old. Tight and cedary on the finish. Not as broad or spicy as the 2018 but more ‘woody’. Crisp and dry. As Freddie Mugnier’s right-hand man said, Nuits-St-Georges whites are unusual for lovers of Côte de Beaune Chardonnay. (JH)
Anticipated maturity: 2021-2028