Vinous – 96
The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a beautifully defined nose, fresh as a daisy, yet unapologetically primal, requiring another 10-15 years to display its terroir. Everything is here on the palate: fine-boned tannins, layers of dark cherry and cassis fruit with underlying raspberry notes. It feels finely chiseled with just the right amount of opulence on the finish. This will be outstanding, yet it should not be broached for some time. Tasted at Maison de Colombier in Beaune.
Anticipated maturity: 2030-2060
Jasper Morris – 92
Slightly more smudged crimson purple, with a complex if not entirely precise nose. Maybe some stems. Middleweight, a bit of mocha, some grainy tannins, fair persistence. Just lacking precision at this stage in its life. This bottle of Bonnes Mares seems to be an outlier though, given the high class shown by all the other Roumier 2017s in the Burgfest tasting this year.
Robert Parker – 96
Roumier’s 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has turned out beautifully, clearly surpassing its 2018 counterpart to my palate. Unwinding in the glass with a deep bouquet of wild berries, peonies, plums, warm spices and orange rind, framed by a creamy patina of new oak, it’s full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with a layered, concentrated core that’s girdled by succulent acids and underpinned by ripe, powdery tannins. It’s reminiscent of a more muscular version of Roumier’s superb 2007.
Anticipated maturity: 2027-2057
Burghound – 94
This is also lightly reduced and it’s enough to blur the underlying nuances of the nose save for a whiff of herbal tea. Otherwise there is excellent power and drive to the intense and even more muscular broad-shouldered flavors that culminate in an explosive, dusty and very, very tightly wound finish. Despite the excellent size and weight, this remains beautifully proportioned and should age effortlessly for several decades. In a word, terrific. (Drink starting 2035)
JancisRobinson.com – 19/20
‘Terres rouges’ is very close to the northern limit, with Morey. Pruning identical. ‘Terres blanches’ (ie lots of active limestone) is above the path that dissects Bonnes Mares. Roumier has three parcels from far north to far south. In 2016 he was able to include for the first time the fruit from an extra hectare (2.5 acres) of land owned by Ficofi (planted in 1995) on marly soil and this has increased the ‘saltiness’ of this wine because two-thirds of their vines are on marl with lots of active lime, the other third on rock with clay and pebbles. Now they have six different parcels. Around 60% whole bunch. Barrel sample, three cuvees blended. A little smoky and rich in dark fruit. A touch of savoury char and sweet spice but I sense it is fruit spice not oak. Deep, cool and elegant, firm yet paper-fine texture, compact and so well defined and harmonious already. Salty finish. Chalky finish that speaks of the limestone too. Complex, elegant beauty. (JH)
Anticipated maturity: 2027-2040