Burghound – 89-91
Funky reduction overshadows the fruit but there is good freshness and punch to the sleek and intense medium weight flavors that possess a round yet muscular mouthfeel, all wrapped in a lingering finish where the reduction reappears on the finish. Reduction on the palate is never a good thing and note that my range offers the benefit of the doubt.
Vinous – 91-93
(these 60-year-old vines produced a normal 40 hectoliters per hectare in 2016): Healthy dark red. Subtly complex perfume of raspberry, rose petal and spices. Dense with fruits and flowers but also fresh and fine-grained, displaying excellent definition and cut. Really stimulates the salivary glands on the back end, finishing with a firm tannic spine and rising length. (The Morey-Saint-Denis Aux Chéseaux was in a very reduced, leathery stage and was too dry and closed to assess.)
Jasper Morris – 91
This vineyard is always one of the last to be picked. It has a denser purple colour, richer fruit on the nose, with darker berries. Indeed the fruit on the palate is much darker – one can see the future forest floor, though it is freshened by some minerality behind.