Robert Parker – 90
The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets, which is made from whole bunch fruit, has a clean and fresh, very pure bouquet that neatly disguises the stem addition. The palate is grippy, very tannic, masculine with a grainy texture, hints of bell pepper towards the huge finish that needs more flesh to balance those stems. Still, it is balanced and I am intrigued to see how this will age – this has complexity and a sense of intrigue.
Anticipated maturity: 2020-2035
Vinous – 91-93
(vinified with 30% whole clusters and aged in 30% new oak; Landanger admitted to "a little too much pigeage" with this wine): Bright dark ruby, deeper in color than the amphora version. Totally different on the nose, where one is immediately aware of a bitter chocolate note from the oak. Then sweeter and more pliant in the mouth, with flavors of black cherry, violet and licorice. More complex and long on the aftertaste, offering an intriguing suggestion of wildness. The tannins here are serious, even a bit youthfully aggressive, and yet this sample makes the amphora version seem a bit frozen in its youth.