Robert Parker – 92-94
The 2014 Corton Clos Rognet Grand Cru, which has been part of the domaine since the 1930s and according to Jean-Nicolas Méo was picked a little earlier than usual, has a detailed and mineral-driven bouquet that unfolds nicely in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, crisp and minerally, fine definition with a sustained, lightly spiced finish. Vibrant and tensile, this is a superb offering from the domaine and is highly recommended. Of course, the pesky drosophila suzukii cared little for reputation when it appeared in Burgundy in the latter half of August, a pre-harvest surprise to keep vignerons on their toes. It just likes warm, humid conditions and some lovely fresh pulpy grapes to feed upon, red rather than white. Speaking to Jean-Nicolas Méo, he suggested that it was actually his German assistant who first discovered the vector in the region.
Anticipated maturity: 2017-2035
Burghound – 92-94
Here the highly restrained if more complex and slightly riper nose offers up spicy purple fruit, in particular plum, along with plenty of sauvage, earth and humus characters. The big-bodied flavors are even richer and more powerful with excellent mid-palate concentration thanks to the abundant dry extract that sets off the firm tannic spine on the beautifully persistent finish. This should age effortlessly.