Robert Parker – 88-90
The 2014 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru, from declassified 18-year-old vines from Chambertin, has an airy, refined bouquet with boysenberry and raspberry coulis, a touch of sous-bois coming through with aeration. The 50% new oak is nicely embroidered into the palate, quite sumptuous in the mouth with plenty of roundness here; this is an early drinking Gevrey that will drink well in its youth.
Anticipated maturity: 2017-2023
Vinous – 86-88
(these vines in Chambertin are now 21 years of age): Bright, dark red. Medicinal dark fruit and game aromas are a bit diffuse; I was reminded of Cabernet. Tightly and slightly medicinal on the palate, offering only moderate sweetness and depth. Needs more mid-palate stuffing to support its slightly dry tannins. Doesn’t quite come alive.
Burghound – 89-91
Here the wood regimen is flagrant and presently dominates the otherwise fresh and spicy black cherry and earth aromas. The supple and forward middle weight flavors display an appealing minerality and mouth feel on the ever-so-mildly austere finish. This is certainly pretty and well-balanced but it’s not dense and that concerns me somewhat in the sense that it may not be able to fully absorb its oak treatment. Time will of course tell but I suspect this is always going to be an oaky Gevrey.