JancisRobinson.com – 17
33% whole bunch. Four out of six casks are new. Four different parcels amounting to 0.55 ha of which half are around 40 years and the rest much older. Will this be another very good Échezeaux 2014? Very dark crimson – darker than most 2014s. Meaty, vegy, substantial nose. Very sweet and round – much sweeter on the palate than the nose suggests. A little inky on the end. Lively texture. But a slight hole in the middle.
Anticipated maturity: 2025-2038
Robert Parker – 90-92
The 2014 Echézeaux Grand Cru, like the Brûlée, was quite closed on the nose when I tasted it. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, slightly chewy tannin at the moment. This feels quite masculine, with a strong tannic backbone, nicely focused but in need of some serious bottle age. It needs to lighten up a little, stretch its wings and breathe. Somehow, you still feel that the spirit of Philippe Engel hangs over Domaine d’Eugenie, despite their best efforts to extricate the weight of history. Partly because over the last two or three years, Engel’s untimely passing prompted a reassessment of his wines that are now elevated to mythical status, almost irrespective of intrinsic quality. And at least out there in the world of Burgundy cognoscenti, the acquisition of the domaine by François Pinault marked the point where their interest waned. That is unfair given that I find incumbent winemaker Michel Mallard to be skillful and as truer Burgundian as the late Engel. He had a misfiring start with d’Eugenie’s 2006s, where to quote one merchant friend charged with selling them in the United Kingdom, “they seemed to be trying to make Latour in Vosne-Romanée.” I don’t find that to be the case nowadays; they learned from that mistake. Don’t try to replicate what you do elsewhere, and certainly forget about replicating its former winemaker.
Anticipated maturity: 2018-2030