2013 Armand Rousseau, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 1x75cl

Robert Parker – 93-95

The 2013 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, which will contain some new oak although I tasted from a used barrel, has a tightly knit bouquet that at the moment is less expressive than the Mazis-Chambertin. The palate is crisp and pure, quite tensile, with a spiciness that becomes more prominent toward the fleshy, harmonious finish. Curiously, even from a used barrel the texture feels as if there is some new oak, but that is just the concentration of fruit coming through. Frédéric enthused about this wine and I suspect that it may surpass my expectations once in bottle. There he is again. As I fumbled trying to open the wrought iron gate chez Rousseau, the legend that is Charles Rousseau, innings of 91 not out, exited the small cabin where he spends his day in quiet repose to help me inside. Sure, he looks a little gaunt, his gait slower and fragile, the caducity of life evident to see and yet remains the history of Burgundy made flesh, blood and charisma. Winemaker Frédéric Robert was on hand as usual to guide me through the barrels, always one of the most candid vignerons in Burgundy. Before embarking upon the tasting he mentioned that the fate of the village cru vines from Château de Gevrey has not been decided, choosing to wait until quality reaches a level where it will merit joining their portfolio (no pressure for the vines there then.) However, one parcel owned by the economically-titled ‘Ng’ family has now augmented their plot of Lavaux Saint Jacques. Like many winemakers, Frédéric was somewhat surprised and relieved to find how well their 2013s had turned out, although he cautioned that the barrels can change from day to day (and with this in mind I often tasted from two or three to aim for a representative sample blend.) Here they commenced the harvest on October 1 – as is customary a little earlier than other growers, some of whom unsheathed their secateurs around four days later. But he told me that the fruit seemed to have reached its full ripeness level and with the impending gloomy forecast felt there was little point in waiting. And like others, he found the malolactic fermentation stubbornly slow, though most had finished by the end of May. [01/12/2014]

Anticipated maturity: 2017-2035

Vinous – 90

The 2013 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru was impressive from barrel, but in bottle I found it coming up a bit short. Firstly, it is extremely reduced on the nose and after two or three hours there is little change. It is dense and muscular, very concentrated in style (perhaps atypically for this cuvée from Rousseau) and yet the finish feels a bit chunky and lacks finesse. Yes, it is too young, but here it is easily surpassed by Cathiard’s Malconsorts. Tasted at 21 Boulevard restaurant in Beaune. [Neal Martin, 07/05/2019]

Anticipated maturity: 2024-2038

Burghound – 91-93

An unusually high-toned nose is comprised by a pretty array of red berry fruit, earth and Asian style tea nuances. There is really lovely detail and vibrancy to the middle weight flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality on the restrained and lingering finish. This delivers surprisingly good flavor authority given that this is not nearly as concentrated as the best in the range. In sum this is a beautifully well-delineated wine of harmony if not power that should reward mid to longer-term aging as the supporting tannins are also dense but fine. [15/01/2015]