2008 Domaine de la Grange des Peres Rouge 1x75cl

Robert Parker – 90+

Pistachio oil, rowan, and lily-of-the-valley seductively scent the 2008 Grange des Peres white (as usual, a blend of Roussanne with Marsanne and Chardonnay), along with hints of vanilla and spice from the barrel. Surprisingly creamy as well as slightly lactic, this is by no means heavy or noticeably alcoholic, but seems to be struggling to express on the palate a personality that I suspect is inherently delicate and incipiently intricate. Vaille thought it was still suffering from its relatively late bottling less than two months prior. Subtle salinity, nut oils, and a reprise of flowers in the long finish go a long way toward redeeming this wine’s promise. I suspect it will benefit from another year or two in bottle, and Vaille is convinced that this of all vintages can be cellared for considerable years beyond that. (My very limited experience with white Grange des Peres of six or more years’ age has been mixed.) [01/08/2011]