Robert Parker – 94
De Vogue’s 2007 Bonnes Mares calls to mind sweet-tart black raspberry candies and herbal lozenges, along with notes of brown spices and smoky black tea. Rich, sedate, and provocatively sweet and perfumed, this manages simultaneously to preserve a saline savor and suggestion of lobster shell reduction that precludes anyone calling it a â€œfruit bomb.â€ The smoky and ” for lack of a better covering term ” â€œmineralâ€ elements accompany this Bonnes Mares’ soothing finish all the way to its distant end. No doubt there is at least a decade’s worth of seduction and intrigue on hand, but here too, I would not hesitate to relish them significantly sooner. Francois Millet ” always keen to pinpoint the expression of fruit he finds in each vintage ” characterizes that of 2008 as â€œsyrup-like,â€ and of 2007 as â€œcandied.â€ I am skeptical that these metaphors can be generalized, but under no circumstances should â€œsyrup-likeâ€ be taken as an attempt to deny the brightness or transparency displayed by so many of the best 2008s, including these. â€œTo have been picked lateâ€ ” in this instance, starting September 27 ” â€œto have been picked cold, and to have fermented very slowly to created the largest amount of glycerol to combine with the freshness of the vintage,â€ opines Millet, constitutes a significant part of the 2008s’ secret, seduction, even mystery. â€œLate maloâ€ ” here completed in August ” he adds, â€œwas also good, so that the vintage could have a true childhood, and slowly, surely build itself. If we had had a southern wind when the weather changed, maybe we would have lost that identity of 2008. But by there being a northern wind, the evolution was continuedâ€ i.e. in a constant, cool trajectory. Not to short-change it, the 2007 vintage collection here is one of those few capable of standing direct comparison to its immediate successor ” or indeed to nearly any other vintage from this address. Imported by Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770; also a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93
Vinous – 93
Very good bright red. Complex but youthfully restrained nose hints at dark raspberry, mocha, herbs and smoke. Quite suave for young Bonnes-Mares, with a slightly medicinal quality to the candied fruit and spice flavors. This has the firm acidity of hard candy and seems more red fruit than usual for this cuvee The tannins arrive late, allowing the finish to expand and linger. This is a lovely example of its vintage.
Burghound – 93
A surprisingly expressive nose displays a broad panoply of ripe floral and fruit aromas that include red raspberry, cherry, plum, violet and rose surrounded by warm soil tones that can also be found on the powerful and tautly muscled large scaled flavors blessed with ample underlying reserves of dry extract that render the relatively refined tannins invisible at present on the explosive and exceptionally deep finish where notes of citrus and floral resurface. A seriously impressive wine of Zen-like harmony and poise.
Jasper Morris – 94
Fine bright still youthful red, clean and pure aromatics, discreet but promising. More perfume, still discreet, begins to come forward. More weight on the palate than the bouquet suggests, a good thread of acidity, increasing intensity to the back – still a baby but this may become very fine indeed