Vinous – 94
Poured from magnum, the 1996 Chambertin Grand Cru shows just a small sign of brettanomyces on the nose, yet somehow it does not seem to compromise the delineation with buoyant red and black fruit mixed with iodine and violets. The palate is focused and firm with plenty of pastille-like red fruit, sour cherries and clove. This feels very harmonious all the way through to its substantial finish – a great Chambertin from Trapet. Tasted at the 1243 Club in Beaune.
Anticipated maturity: 2019-2030
John Gilman – 92+
Jean-Louis Trapet only took over the family estate here in 1990 and during the mid-1990s, like many of his contemporaries at the time, he was using quite a bit more new oak for his wines than is the case today. The new oak shows a bit here in this lovely 1996 Chambertin, which is a very good wine, but not quite in the same celestial league as Jean-Louis’ wines today. The bouquet offers up a complex constellation of red and black cherries, plums, woodsmoke, a touch of grilled meats, a fine base of soil and toasty new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very nicely balanced, with fine focus and grip, plenty of length, suave tannins and a long, complex and tangy finish. This is very tasty wine in the making and has decades of life ahead of it.
Anticipated maturity: 2020-2060