Vinous – 91
The 1996 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru from Domaine des Lambrays is a wine that I panned when I tasted a magnum in 2018. This bottle was far superior, virtually a different wine. Mature on the nose, and still a little green, it gains complexity and reveals garrigue and star anise aromas, plus touches of burning embers/ash. Fleshy and balanced on the palate with a dash of white pepper, it has a very tertiary finish and feels evolved for a 1996 red Burgundy, yet undoubtedly this was a far better showing than the previous one.
Anticipated maturity: 2021-2037