Robert Parker – 87
The Bonnes Mares reveals an impressive dark ruby color, a tight, reticent bouquet, medium body, high, hard, astringent tannin, and a compact, concentrated feel in the mouth. It is not a sure bet given the elevated tannin level, but it is a well-made, promising Pinot Noir that should be cellared for 6-7 years. The 1993s produced at this renowned estate are backward, stern, structured wines that optimists will deem successful if the fruit holds and the tannin melts away. Importers: Barrique Wine Co., Chicago, IL; tel. (312) 275-1200; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; tel. (617) 395-3300; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 626-2121.