Burghound – 94
Like many ’85s today in 750 ml, the wine is fully mature with plenty of yeast, baked bread and apple compote aromas that are trimmed in a toasty character. The supporting mousse has diminished considerably relative to what it was like when this was young and this has become more like wine with a hint of spritz than vigorous Champagne yet this allows the incredible complexity of a fully mature Salon to emerge in full glory. I quite like this and while it’s not quite the equal of its more youthful counterparts, there is much to admire here. Note that I would be drinking this up unless your taste runs to fully post-mature aromas and flavors.
Wine Enthusiast – 96
An enormously complex and rich wine that almost defies description. Golden apples, raisins and pears; bread, cream, vanilla, honey and nuts. The list goes on and on. Full and rich; the mousse is extremely fine and creamy-textured in the mouth. Drinking beautifully now, it will probably hold another ten years or more. Even better than a bottle reviewed last year.
Vinous – 95+
Knockout aromas of lemon, lime, toffee, grilled nuts, nutmeg and minerals; conveys a strong impression of soil character. Great thickness and brightness in the mouth; offers a compelling combination of lemon and orange citricity and complex yeast autolysis notes, and near-perfect harmony of young and maturing elements. This outstanding, elegant Champagne shows an extraordinary creamy richness yet is still rather folded in on itself. Has the sheer structure and grip to develop in bottle for a decade or two. Finishes with great nutty length.