Robert Parker – 96
Tasted at Chez Bruce in London. The 1982 La Tour Haut-Brion, which I have tasted numerous times, has long been one of the lesser-known gems of the vintage. This bottle was, incidentally, served blind against the 1982 La Mission Haut Brion. The first thing that I noticed was the sheer harmony expressed by the aromatics. There remain those enticing scents of black olive and a brine-like-perhaps seaweed (kelp)-aroma that infuse that black fruit. With time, perhaps this particular bottle showed more floral aromas and a touch of bay leaf. The palate is fresh on the entry-though still more introspective than La Mission-and embroidered with fine tannin and a firm, gravelly, tobacco-infused finish that gently grips the mouth. You can still feel this long after the wine has departed. It is simply a great Graves that, at 34-years of age, shows no signs of slowing down. Tasted June 2016.
Anticipated maturity: 2017-2040
JancisRobinson.com – 17
Bit loose but fully evolved. Broad and transparent and lively. Very slightly band aid. Cassis. Not the cleanest.
Anticipated maturity: 2002-2020
Vinous – 91
Saturated red-ruby. Slowly developing, highly expressive aromas of cooked plum, leather, tobacco, road tar and earth. Then silky and lush in the mouth, with compelling fat and texture. Remains just this side of roasted, thanks to sound acids and a medicinal note of menthol. Thick and impressive wine, finishing firm and gripping, with solid, ripe tannins. Serious juice.